Silnik to 4G63 z 1gen. Eclipse, w moim przypadku bez turbo i tylko na nim się tutaj skupię, chociaż większośc informacji będzie taka sama dla 4G63T. Skrzynia biegów pasuje z colta, więc od razu zachowujemy aż 3 łapy napędu. Tarcza sprzęgła i docisk z 4G63, rozrusznik z colta chyba nie pasuje (chyba, ponieważ mój niby kręci, ale czasem się zaklinuje). Z Eclipse pracuje idealnie. Do tego na silniku brak jest otworu pod jedną śrubę skrzyni, reszta pasuje. Łapę od strony rozrządu trzeba przerobic - ja pospawałem w jedną łapę Eclipse i łapę od colta. Widziałem natomiast zdjęcia silnika, na których prawdopodobnie jest łapa od Eclipse 2G. Przewód od wspomagania pasuje do pompy 4G63. To w sumie wszystko.
Opisane wtyki 4G63:
A-08: Dual Pressure Switch
A-09: Wiper Motor
A-10: Control Wiring Harness and Battery Cable Assembly Combination
*A-11: Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump
A-12: Brake Fluid Level Sensor
A-13: Control Wiring Harness and Solenoid Valve Harness Assembly Combination
A-36: Air Flow Sensor
A-51: Waste Gate Solenoid
A-52: Control Wiring Harness and Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Combination
A-53: Control Wiring Harness and Engine Compartment Wiring harness Combination
A-55: Fuel Pump Check Connector
A-56: Noise Condenser
A-57: Defogger Relay
A-58: Injector Resistor Pack
A-59: Engine Speed Adjustment Connector
A-60: Ignition Timing Adjustment Connector
*B-00: Noise Filter (for Tachometer)
B-01: Injector No. 4
*B-02 & B-05: Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Switch
**B-04: Idle Speed Control Actuator
B-06: Injector No. 3
B-07: Detonation (Knock) Sensor
B-08: EGR Temperature Sensor
B-09: Injector No. 2
B-10: Injector No. 1
*B-14: Ignition Coil (Coil Pack)
*B-15: Power Transistor Unit
B-16: A/C Magnetic Clutch
B-26: Oxygen Sensor
B-29: Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit
B-30: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (for ECU)
B-31: Engine Coolant Temperature Switch (for A/C)
*B-32: Crank Angle and Top Dead Center Sensor (Cam Angle Sensor, CAS)
C-56: Oxygen Sensor Check Connector
C-57: Control Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (1-pin, passenger side kick panel)
**C-58: Control Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (14-pin, passenger side kick panel)
C-59: Control Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (6-pin, passenger side kick panel)
C-63: MPI Control Relay
C-64: MPI Control Unit (ECU, small connector)
C-65: MPI Control Unit (ECU, medium connector)
**C-66: MPI Control Unit (ECU, large connector)
**C-67: Control Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (under center console)
Nas interesują tylko te, które łączą się z budą colta (Control Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination), czyli 57, 58, 59, 67.
57
1 – BR, black w/ red stripe – runs from pin 4 of the Defogger Relay to pin 2 of the Defogger Switch.
58
1 – LW, blue w/ white stripe – pin 4 of Wiper Motor (front) to pin 7 of Steering Column Switch
2 – L, blue (FSM shows the male side to be LG, blue w/ green stripe) – pin 3 of Wiper Motor (front) to pin 8 on inside junction block (fuse 9, "Wiper")
3 – BW, black w/ white stripe – pin 1 (only pin) of Magnetic Clutch (A/C) to pin 3 of Magnetic Clutch Relay (A/C)
4 – GY, green w/ yellow stripe – intersects wiring running between pin 1 of the Dual Pressure Switch (A/C) and pin 7 of the ECU to run to pin 4 of the Magnetic Clutch Relay (A/C)
5 – W, white -
1.8L: pin 2 of CRC filter to pin 12 (tachometer) on the Gauge Cluster;
2.0L: intercepts pin 4 of Ignition Power Transistor running to pin 109 of ECU to run instead to pin 12 (tachometer) on Gauge Cluster
6 – LY, blue w/ yellow stripe - pin 3 (control valve) of Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump to pin 13 of Auto-Cruise Control Unit
7 – LB, blue w/ black stripe - pin 4 (motor) of Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump to pin 26 of Auto-Cruise Control Unit
8 – Empty
9 – YG, yellow w/ green stripe - pin 1 of Brake Fluid Level Sensor to pin 66 of Gauge Cluster
10 – LR, blue w/ red stripe - pin 1 of Wiper Motor (front) to pin 3 of Steering Column Switch
11 – LB, blue w/ black stripe - pin 2 of Wiper Motor (front) to pin 4 of Steering Column Switch
12 – GW, green w/ white stripe - pin 1 of the Air Conditioning Control Unit to pin 2 of the A/C Dual Pressure Switch and to pin 4 of Condenser Fan Motor Relay
13 – RL, red w/ blue stripe –
AUTO, -1992: pin 11 on Park/Neutral Position Switch to back up lights;
AUTO, 1993+, Non-Turbo: pin 6 on Park/Neutral Position Switch to back up lights;
AUTO, 1993+, Turbo: pin 5 on Park/Neutral Position Switch to back up lights;
MANUAL: pin 2 on Back-Up Light Switch to back up lights
14 – R, red –
AUTO, -1992: pin 16 on inside junction block (fuse 18, "Back") to pin 10 on the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
AUTO, 1993+, Non-Turbo: pin 16 on inside junction block (fuse 18, "Back") to pin 7 on the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
AUTO, 1993+, Turbo: pin 16 on inside junction block (fuse 18, "Back") to pin 6 on the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
MANUAL: pin 16 on inside junction block (fuse 18, "Back") to pin 1 on Back-Up Light Switch
15 – YG, yellow w/ green stripe - pin 1 of Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit to pin 10 of Gauge Cluster
16 – LO, blue w/ orange stripe - pin 1 of Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump to pin 1 on Stop Light Switch
17 – LR, blue w/ red stripe - pin 2 (release valve) of Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump to pin 12 on Auto-Cruise Control Unit
18 – Empty
59
1 – W, white – runs from the 30A (IGN) fuse on the positive battery terminal to pin 6 of the Ignition Switch
2 – BY, black w/ yellow stripe –
AUTO, -1992: runs from pin 5 of the Ignition Switch to pin 8 of the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
AUTO, 1993+, Non-Turbo: runs from pin 5 of the Ignition Switch to pin 5 of the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
AUTO, 1993+, Turbo: runs from pin 5 of the Ignition Switch to pin 8 of the Park/Neutral Position Switch;
MANUAL, 1.8L: Not positive as there may be an error in the FSM; I believe it runs from pin 5 of the Starting Relay to pin 7 of the MFI Control Relay
MANUAL, 2.0L: runs from pin 3 of the Starting Relay to pin 9 of the MFI Control Relay
3 – L, blue – runs from pin 2 of Defogger Timer (rear) to Pin 3 of Defogger Relay (rear)
4 – YW, yellow w/ white stripe – runs from pin 18 of the ECU to pin 59 of the Gauge Cluster
5 – BW (large), black w/ white stripe –
1.8L: runs from pin 2 on the large Distributor Assembly connector to pin 4 of the Ignition Switch;
2.0L: runs from pin 4 of Ignition Switch to pin 110 of ECU
6 – BW (small), black w/ white stripe –
1.8L: runs from pin 2 of the Fuel Pump to pin 109 of the ECU;
2.0L, FWD: runs from pin 2 of the Fuel Pump to pin 13 of the ECU as well as pin 2 of the MFI Control Relay;
2.0L, AWD: runs from pin 1 of the Fuel Pump and Gauge Assembly to pin 13 of the ECU as well as pin 2 of the MFI Control Relay
67
1 -
M/T - NONE
A/T ONLY - YW, yellow with white, Power/Economy Change Over Switch pin 1 to TCU pin 9
2 -
M/T - RB, red with black, magnetic clutch relay pin 2 to ECU pin 65
A/T - Br, Brown, Accelerator Pedal Switch pin 1 to TCU pin 8
3 -
M/T - RB, red with black, fuse 19 to ECU pin 103 for battery back-up
A/T - RB & RW, red with black (male side) and red with white (female side)
w/ Cruise Control - Auto Cruise Control Unit pin 13 to TCU pin 2
w/o Cruise Control – Over Drive Switch pin 4 to TCU pin 2
4 -
M/T - 2.0L Turbo ONLY - BR, black with red, Boost Gauge (gauge cluster pin 6) to ECU pin 3
A/T - 2.0L – RG, red with green, Check Engine Light to ECU pin 64
5 -
M/T - LR, blue with red, fuse 3 to Power Window Relay pin 4
A/T - RB, red with black, Magnetic Clutch Relay pin 2 to ECU pin 65
6 -
M/T - Y, yellow, Self Diagnosis Check Connector pin 1 to ECU pin 1
A/T - RB, red with black, Fuse 19 to TCU pin 56 to ECU pin 103
7 - M/T ONLY - W, white, Self Diagnosis Check Connector pin 10 to ECU pin 2
8 -
M/T - RG, red with green, check engine light to ECU pin 64
A/T - YR, yellow with red, Self Diagnosis Check Connector pin 6 to TCU pin 19
9 - NONE
10 - LB, blue with black, fuse 7 to Inhibitor Switch pin 4 and TCU pin 11 and, LR, blue with red, to Auto Cruise Control Unit pin 6 on equipped vehicles
11 - NONE
12 - LR, blue with red, fuse 3 to Power Window Relay pin 4
13 - Y, yellow, Self Diagnosis Check Connector pin 1 to ECU pin 1
14 - W & YG, white on check connector side, yellow with green on connector side, changes back to white at ECU; Self Diagnosis Check Connector pin 10 to ECU pin 2
Oraz druga najważniejsza rzecz - wtyki B-22 i B-23 z colta, w które się wpinamy:
W mojej wiązce ktoś postanowił obciac wtykę C-63 od przekaźnika pompy paliwa, który jak się okazało odpowiada również za podanie prądu do ECU. Dlatego wklejam jeszcze jedną ważną rzecz - via dsmtuners.
The 1G DSM has two main circuits for the engine. The MPI circuit and the Ignition circuit.
The ECU is connected to both but powered from the MPI circuit.
Power for the MPI circuit comes from the MPI fusible link on the positive battery terminal to pin 10 on the MPI relay and should be present all the time even with the car off. Power for the Fuel Pump and the rest of the ignition circuit comes from the Ignition fusible link on the positive battery terminal and for the fuel pump winds up on pin 3 on the MPI relay.
The MPI relay has two actual relays inside, one for the "MPI" circuit to the ECU and sensors, powered from the MPI fuse on the battery going to pin 10 on the MPI relay (91-94 cars) and the "Fuel" (FP) circuit from the ignition fuse on the battery going to pin 3 on the MPI relay. The FP side has two trigger inputs, the MPI side one input. MPI Relay pin 10 is the source for the MPI power and pin 3 is the source for the FP power. When one of the control lines to either relay is activated the relay switches the power from the source to the output pin(s)
The ECU receives backup power on pin 103 from Junction Box fuse #19 (room) in the drivers footwell fusebox. This is used to maintain the RAM in the ECU's CPU and allow the ECU to power itself up. It also provides power to the radio to maintain the setting and to the cabin lights. Like MPI relay pin 10 the backup power on ECU pin 103 should to present all the time even with the car off. In other words it's unswitched. Without power to 103 I don't usually see the ECU able to power IC110 that controls the MPI relay.
The ECU sits dormant in a powered down state waiting to see pin 110 (IG1 from ignition switch) go high (to battery voltage). When pin 110 goes high the ECU pulls pin 63 (MPI relay pin 8) low (to ground). This causes the the relay to activate and switches the MPI power from MPI pin 10 to MPI pins 4 and 5 providing power to the ECU on pins 102 and 107 along with various sensors, solenoids, injectors, ISC, and O2 Heater in the engine bay.
Shortly after battery voltage shows up on ECU pins 102 and 107 the reset circuit in the ECU wakes the ECU up and if it boots up successfully you'll get a heartbeat on ECU pin 1, the CEL will come on for about 5 seconds and then turn off, the boost gauge will display 0 (Stock ECU software on turbo cars) and the ISC on the throttle body will move in and out to rehome.
The next interesting condition is when ECU pin 108 (indirectly START from the ignition switch) goes high (to battery voltage).
The START signal also goes to the FP side of the MPI relay (pin 9) to power up the fuel pump, and to the ECU (pin 108) causing the ECU to do the things it needs to do the start the engine.
Once the engine is spinning (CAS is pulsing) the ECU pulls it's pin 56 (MPI relay pin 7) to ground and continues to hold it low until you turn the car off or the engine stops (CAS stops pulsing), to keep the fuel pump powered after you release the ignition.
The first thing you should do if your ECU doesn't power up (CEL on for about 5 seconds, the boost gauge displays 0) is check the two fusible links and the room fuse. Measure the fuses for continuity (0 ohms resistance) rather than look at them since looking isn't an accurate test. Then check for battery voltage at the ECU and MPI relay pins. Remember that the ECU doesn't get power on pins 102 and 107 until the MPI relay is activated by turning the ignition key to RUN or START. If the MPI relay doesn't activate try grounding its pin 8 and check that power shows up on its pins 4 and 5. If that works then either the ECU isn't seeing the IG1 signal or the ECU is damaged.
If battery voltage is present on ECU pins 102/107, 103, the ECU grounds are good, and the ECU still doesn't power up it's likely damaged.
Applying +12v to pin 10 and the ground (-battery) connection to pin 8 should make 12v show up at pins 4 and 5. Same deal for pin 3 and 7 causing 12v to show at pin 2. Applying 12v across pins 9 and 6 will cause continuity between pins 3 and 2. (on relays with the second input)
As mentioned above the ECU is set up to provide the ground to the coils to cause current to flow from the battery to the fuse to the relay coil through the ECU transistor to ground.
Wtyczka C-63 z instalacji 4G63:
Tak natomiast rozpisałem i połączyłem wtyczkę c-07 z CA4A z kablami idącymi do wtyczki c-63. Ten krok można pominąc, jeśli posiadamy oryginalny przekaźnik z 4G63, mój był ucięty razem z wtyczką.
Diagram 4G63 z przekaźnikiem do pompy i komputera:
Dla uzupełnienia - interesujące nas wtyczki B-23 i B-22 z instalacji CA:
Kilka słów o masce silnika. Oryginalna maska zamknie się tylko wtedy, kiedy:
1. ściągniemy, podetniemy na górze osłonę rozrządu i wytniemy żeberka maski,
2. przespawamy garba z Eclipse lub założymy i dopasujemy maskę z EVO I-III.
Garb u ślimaka:
I jedno zdjęcie z mojej pracy z 4G63 w CA4A:
Rozpiska pinów komputera 4G63:
http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf
Małe podsumowanie
Aby odpalic auto w wersji podstawowej (sam start, bez wycieraczek, sprysków itd.) należy:
1. podajemy stałe napięcie na przekaźnik pompy ("sterownik" MFI), który podaje również prąd na ecu - czarno-czerwony kabel, który znajdziemy na wiązce od strony skrzynki bezpieczników (obok niego jest gruby biały i czerwony), łączymy go zółtym kablem ze skrzynki colta, który podłączony jest wcześniej do bezpiecznika 20A.
2. mamy już prąd na sterowniku, teraz trzeba dodac sygnał IG (kluczyk w środkowej pozycji zapłonu( oraz ST (start). Te kable odnajdujemy w kostce B-23 (pin 10 B-Y), który łączymy z kablem w tym samym kolorze B-Y w kostce c-59 oraz w kostce B-22 (pin 4 B-W), który łączymy z kablem znowu w tym samym kolorze B-W z kostce c-59 pin 5.
3. mamy prąd, mamy sygnał ze stacyjki - brakuje napięcia na pompę paliwa. Prąd trzeba podac na wtyczkę B-23 pin 11 (czarno-niebieski), a bierzemy go z c-59 pin 6, albo bezpośrednio z przekaźnika MFI - ja wziąłem z przekaźnika.
4. mamy prąd, mamy stacyjkę, mamy pompę paliwa - rozrusznik. Bierzemy w dłoń 4 pinową kostkę z okolic skrzynki bezpieczników, wpinamy miernik w kable i szukamy napięcia po przekręceniu kluczyka na pozycję start. Jest? Super, ten kabel łączymy z jednym kablem idącym od rozrusznika.
5. odpalamy.
Stałe napięcie - czarno-czerwony kabel:
Wtyk A-10, w którym odnajdziemy start rozrusznika:
Źródła:
1. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... rness.html
2. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning- ... t152286206
3. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-1G.html
4. http://www.lancerproject.ca/lancerproject_1.htm
5. http://projectzerog.com/wiring-how_to.shtml
6. http://tech.mirage-performance.com/1GDS ... rness.html
Nie wiem dlaczego, ale paczka na speedy share nie hasa
- dość pilne info dla mnie
